A few rules of thumb for winetasters in a hurry to pour
A brother who seems to know his way around a wine bottle says, "I never drink any Cabernet less than five years old. That's when they're ready to drink."
Hmm. I would not live by that rule, but like speed limits in Montana, I understand their purpose. They shortcut the search--whether for syrah or rainbow trout. But like women who hang out in bars, and politics in general, following them has unfortunate side effects.
For instance, that 5-year rule would cause me to miss:
While that wouldn't stop me from trying a Colgin Cabernet Cariad...the price might--it's $695.00 a bottle, which puts it at odds with my only rule: Nothing over $25 unless it's a gift...then I'll go...$30. Like the Harlan Estate 2005 Cab at $2,895 a bottle, rated 100 by Robert Parker, it will just have to stand beside Ingrid Bergman as a delight I'll never sample.
What about that 2007 Joseph Phelps (half) bottle of Cab Insignia at $125? you ask. ]Well, it's hard to say. Is that old enough? If I'm going to spend $125....it's not old enough. I'd expect it to be at least 21.
But I don't have to wait for that. I've already tried the 2008 Kathryn Hall Napa Valley Cab. It was just fine. Parker gave it a 95, by the way, and listed another 2008 Hall Cab among the top wines of 2011.
I could list a dozen more Cabs that are mere toddlers in wine time. But what about my brother's rule of thumb? Tannic wines soften as they age, taking some of that edge off the the first sip. And like a certain woman who shall remain nameless here, Cabs do hold up better than other grapes as they get older.
I should add that (according to a respected sommelier quoted in Forbes Magazine) there are some Super Tuscan wines like Ucelleria Brunello di Montalcino (sangiovese) which gain good weight as they age because they are blended with Bordeaux grapes grown in the same region of Italy. He also names the Castello Romitorio Romito del Romitorio 2004 as a hefty wine that holds up well after aging. But don't expect to see that Brunello for under $60. The 2004 Romitorio is a better bet ($40-50) and has been rated 88 or better.
So my pragmatic thumbrule is this: if the wine ran you more than $125 a bottle, it's safe to hold it for a few years. At $250, you might even hang on for 15-20 years When you finally open it, you'll feel like a god..until it's gone. To prevent the letdown that is inevitable when you reach the bottom of that bottle, buy three.
Now you know why (a) I don't buy wines that expensive, and (b) why I don't mind drinking younger Cabs. But don't apply that 5-year rule to wine in general--they are built for drinking in most cases....pun intended.
Sunday, April 8, 2012
Sunday, March 25, 2012
Ain't gonna study wine no more
In case you missed my pun, there's a classic folk song--probably Pete Seeger or Woody Guthrie--called "Aint Gonna Study WAR No more." Its an ironic tune, meant to mock America's long practice of starting a new war every 20 years.
By analogy, there are the wine wars...by which I mean that big vintners (Gallo, etc.) buy up the fields and the boutiques and dominate the market, taking home our cash, even when we think we're poking around in the esoteric zones.
I also believe they have shaped our preferences by controlling the shop talk and the wine media. But I hadn't considered grad school, until I found this brochure inviting me to take a long distance class to learn all about wine.
They used to call them "correspondence schools." You'd turn in your weekly lesson and get a grade ...and in six weeks you'd be smart as a whip.
So --without bothering to sign up--I offer these thoughts based on hints hidden in the promotional brochure.
1) Right away they promise to teach me about 'which regions make the best wine.' That's a subtle reference to 'terroir.' It makes me want to see a terroir film. But I never worry about terroirism. I taste, I swirl the incarnadined juice, I decide what I like.
Just yesterday I sampled the current release from Garrison Creek (Walla Walla). I have no idea about their terroir, but liked the Cabernet a lot, the syrah almost as much. (He oaks the wine 32 months!)
2) The next temptation they offer me is to "learn why some wines pair well with certain foods and others don't." I used to believe that
claptrap. I used to believe in the Easter Bunny, too. And yes..it's true that a mouthful of chocolate truffle explodes on the palate when you add a sip of syrah. But (a) I'm not always near chocolate, and (b) I am trying as I grow older to shrink my consumption of calories, and my wife hates it when I bring home chocolate. She's addicted to it, even without the aid of syrah. So I favor a simple cracker and a simple slice of Comte or Gruyere without fussing about how perfectly it pairs with wine.
3) Other promises in the brochure include that I will learn how to tell where a wine grape was grown (ho hum); how to store wine so it is neither too warm nor to cold; and most of all, implicit and ominous, is the promise that I will be able to talk good about wine.
Enough about the brochrue. You can take the course if you wish (it'll show up in your mailbox with other GREAT COURSES on Aristotle, Plane Geometry, and othe things smart people think about).
My only concern here is to distinguish between drinking wines that please me, vs. showing off about wine. I once deceived a showboat pal by pouring Paul Masson $7 burgundy into a carafe and hinting that it was from an exotic new vineyard. He raved.
So what's my better reason for drinking (especially with friends)?
First answer: the friendship, which if it's worth having, will outlive
the worst wine on earth. Second answer: to slow down the drinking by chatting about how the wine feels in the mouth. Is it too tart? I don't care if it's been open half an hour or a day..if it's tart I'm not going to drink it again. Is it shallow (my word for a wine that reminds me of Kool-Aid)? If so, why am I taking a 2nd swallow?
I like a wine with body and some kickback in it. I don't need the vintner's lingo to say what I notice. That way lies madness. Yesterday I sampled a domestic Barbera from Walla Walla and said, "Wow..it's..velvety."
The winemaker's eyebrows jumped. He was happy to hear that...would have been equally happy to hear, "I love it!" but my spontaneous comment told him it had a quality that came close enough to what he hoped to produce.
And that's my final word. We're all just looking --in these wine-soaked moments--for what the poet Ted Roethke called "a steady storm of correspondences, or taking a philosophic leap to Italy, what Ugo Betti meant when he wrote, "Perhaps you, and only you, can listen to me and not laugh."
We look for confirmation, for joie d'vivre, for the silent shining eye that says, "Yeah...I liked it, too."
PS
It's not in the brochure.
By analogy, there are the wine wars...by which I mean that big vintners (Gallo, etc.) buy up the fields and the boutiques and dominate the market, taking home our cash, even when we think we're poking around in the esoteric zones.
I also believe they have shaped our preferences by controlling the shop talk and the wine media. But I hadn't considered grad school, until I found this brochure inviting me to take a long distance class to learn all about wine.
They used to call them "correspondence schools." You'd turn in your weekly lesson and get a grade ...and in six weeks you'd be smart as a whip.
So --without bothering to sign up--I offer these thoughts based on hints hidden in the promotional brochure.
1) Right away they promise to teach me about 'which regions make the best wine.' That's a subtle reference to 'terroir.' It makes me want to see a terroir film. But I never worry about terroirism. I taste, I swirl the incarnadined juice, I decide what I like.
Just yesterday I sampled the current release from Garrison Creek (Walla Walla). I have no idea about their terroir, but liked the Cabernet a lot, the syrah almost as much. (He oaks the wine 32 months!)
2) The next temptation they offer me is to "learn why some wines pair well with certain foods and others don't." I used to believe that
claptrap. I used to believe in the Easter Bunny, too. And yes..it's true that a mouthful of chocolate truffle explodes on the palate when you add a sip of syrah. But (a) I'm not always near chocolate, and (b) I am trying as I grow older to shrink my consumption of calories, and my wife hates it when I bring home chocolate. She's addicted to it, even without the aid of syrah. So I favor a simple cracker and a simple slice of Comte or Gruyere without fussing about how perfectly it pairs with wine.
3) Other promises in the brochure include that I will learn how to tell where a wine grape was grown (ho hum); how to store wine so it is neither too warm nor to cold; and most of all, implicit and ominous, is the promise that I will be able to talk good about wine.
Enough about the brochrue. You can take the course if you wish (it'll show up in your mailbox with other GREAT COURSES on Aristotle, Plane Geometry, and othe things smart people think about).
My only concern here is to distinguish between drinking wines that please me, vs. showing off about wine. I once deceived a showboat pal by pouring Paul Masson $7 burgundy into a carafe and hinting that it was from an exotic new vineyard. He raved.
So what's my better reason for drinking (especially with friends)?
First answer: the friendship, which if it's worth having, will outlive
the worst wine on earth. Second answer: to slow down the drinking by chatting about how the wine feels in the mouth. Is it too tart? I don't care if it's been open half an hour or a day..if it's tart I'm not going to drink it again. Is it shallow (my word for a wine that reminds me of Kool-Aid)? If so, why am I taking a 2nd swallow?
I like a wine with body and some kickback in it. I don't need the vintner's lingo to say what I notice. That way lies madness. Yesterday I sampled a domestic Barbera from Walla Walla and said, "Wow..it's..velvety."
The winemaker's eyebrows jumped. He was happy to hear that...would have been equally happy to hear, "I love it!" but my spontaneous comment told him it had a quality that came close enough to what he hoped to produce.
And that's my final word. We're all just looking --in these wine-soaked moments--for what the poet Ted Roethke called "a steady storm of correspondences, or taking a philosophic leap to Italy, what Ugo Betti meant when he wrote, "Perhaps you, and only you, can listen to me and not laugh."
We look for confirmation, for joie d'vivre, for the silent shining eye that says, "Yeah...I liked it, too."
PS
It's not in the brochure.
Friday, March 16, 2012
How'd you hear about that wine?
If you're not an aficionado, a vintner, enrolled in a class in wine-making at UC Davis, you probably heard about a particular wine by accident.
Oh, maybe you picked something up at Safeway on a whim. Or maybe you got a gift from a friend and have replicated that gift now and then.
But the most likely place to hear about a wine is from an elightened bartender who knows just enough to be dangerous, or while sharing a glass after hours with a pal. In the first case, you are headed down an alley built by wine distributors who know that women prefer chards over reds, and most guys like cabernet or syrah.
So you're just a mutt in the market. Yeah, you might be a self-taught connoisseur, but that's a pricey way to go, since you'd need to taste hundreds of wines before you had any serious confidence about your own taste.
So most of us stick with 6-10 wines we know we enjoy, along with the usual crowd of appetizers (a little crostini, a cheese plate, or some combination of crackers and cold cuts).
How can we expand that horizon? A trip to St. Helena doesn't hurt. In a day or two we can sample two dozen wines, sometimes paying a tasting fee that's refunded if we buy a bottle. Or we can visit a local wine bar, or set up a tasting with friends, each of us bringing a bottle.
My own method is to cruise the wine aisle at a decent shop. I look for red wines (we don't drink much white in our house). I stick with cabernet, syrah, Malbec, pinot noir, or a blend of cab and merlot. I also like bold Tuscans, barolos, Nebbiolos, and Montpulcianos.
I stay at the pricepoint (under $21) my budget can handle. I belong to a couple of wine clubs but often reject the quarterly shipment. I scan the new stuff at Costco to see if anything appealing has come into range. Last month I picked a new wine because the guy unpacking the cases at Costco said casually, "Have you tried this one yet?"
He pointed to a row of reds: the centerpiece was a WALTER CLORE Columbia Valley Red (from Columbia Crest Vineyards) I said I never heard of it. "Supposed to be one of the best wines in the world," he said. He could not verify. He was merely repeating what he heard in the warehouse. I weighed the matter briefly.
He was not posing as an expert. He had no idea how it tasted. He did not know my preferences or my pricepoint. I considered the possibility tha the was either a stooge for Costco or even a secret agent for the winery. Taking his advice would be like taking the advice of a movie usher on which movie to watch. Or buying a car because the neighbor had one and liked it. So I did it. As much as any other informal measure, hearsay is often a reliable path to enlightenment. If humble monks can teach us humility, why can't a warehouse guy lead us to some worthy contender. Besides, I figured if Jeff Brotman (Costco CEO) and his crew were willing to stock it, they have done some homework. I buy my shirts there. Why not a bottle of wine?
I tasted it last night. I liked it pretty well. It's a lightweight, not a knockout. Doing some Internet homework I learn it is a blend of 66% merlot and cab. NW Winepress says, "Firm in texture, ..remarkably graceful and harmonious, on the lighter side for a Cabernet-based wine, offering peppery blackberry accents." Robert Parker adds: "aged for 30 months in new French oak. It exhibits notes of pain grille, pencil lead, damp earth, herbs, and balsamic." The winemaker's notes say: "A classic Bordeaux-style winemaking protocol enhances the aromatics of slight spice, earth, coconut, and chocolate in this red blend."
That explains why I'm not knocked out...it's pleasant, but not husky enough for my palate. A more useful comment is one from a private party whose comment online suggests that Columbia Crest private reserve wines are invariably "brilliant." Since most of them cost more than $30 I may never verify that opinion. And the vintage I bought might wake up a little by 2014, so I'll try it again that year.
Would I give Walter Clore as a gift? Sure...if I knew the recipient likes her wines a little less bold, a little more fruit forward. That's a good enough reason to venture from the box canyon of my usual preferences.
Oh, maybe you picked something up at Safeway on a whim. Or maybe you got a gift from a friend and have replicated that gift now and then.
But the most likely place to hear about a wine is from an elightened bartender who knows just enough to be dangerous, or while sharing a glass after hours with a pal. In the first case, you are headed down an alley built by wine distributors who know that women prefer chards over reds, and most guys like cabernet or syrah.
So you're just a mutt in the market. Yeah, you might be a self-taught connoisseur, but that's a pricey way to go, since you'd need to taste hundreds of wines before you had any serious confidence about your own taste.
So most of us stick with 6-10 wines we know we enjoy, along with the usual crowd of appetizers (a little crostini, a cheese plate, or some combination of crackers and cold cuts).
How can we expand that horizon? A trip to St. Helena doesn't hurt. In a day or two we can sample two dozen wines, sometimes paying a tasting fee that's refunded if we buy a bottle. Or we can visit a local wine bar, or set up a tasting with friends, each of us bringing a bottle.
My own method is to cruise the wine aisle at a decent shop. I look for red wines (we don't drink much white in our house). I stick with cabernet, syrah, Malbec, pinot noir, or a blend of cab and merlot. I also like bold Tuscans, barolos, Nebbiolos, and Montpulcianos.
I stay at the pricepoint (under $21) my budget can handle. I belong to a couple of wine clubs but often reject the quarterly shipment. I scan the new stuff at Costco to see if anything appealing has come into range. Last month I picked a new wine because the guy unpacking the cases at Costco said casually, "Have you tried this one yet?"
He pointed to a row of reds: the centerpiece was a WALTER CLORE Columbia Valley Red (from Columbia Crest Vineyards) I said I never heard of it. "Supposed to be one of the best wines in the world," he said. He could not verify. He was merely repeating what he heard in the warehouse. I weighed the matter briefly.
He was not posing as an expert. He had no idea how it tasted. He did not know my preferences or my pricepoint. I considered the possibility tha the was either a stooge for Costco or even a secret agent for the winery. Taking his advice would be like taking the advice of a movie usher on which movie to watch. Or buying a car because the neighbor had one and liked it. So I did it. As much as any other informal measure, hearsay is often a reliable path to enlightenment. If humble monks can teach us humility, why can't a warehouse guy lead us to some worthy contender. Besides, I figured if Jeff Brotman (Costco CEO) and his crew were willing to stock it, they have done some homework. I buy my shirts there. Why not a bottle of wine?
I tasted it last night. I liked it pretty well. It's a lightweight, not a knockout. Doing some Internet homework I learn it is a blend of 66% merlot and cab. NW Winepress says, "Firm in texture, ..remarkably graceful and harmonious, on the lighter side for a Cabernet-based wine, offering peppery blackberry accents." Robert Parker adds: "aged for 30 months in new French oak. It exhibits notes of pain grille, pencil lead, damp earth, herbs, and balsamic." The winemaker's notes say: "A classic Bordeaux-style winemaking protocol enhances the aromatics of slight spice, earth, coconut, and chocolate in this red blend."
That explains why I'm not knocked out...it's pleasant, but not husky enough for my palate. A more useful comment is one from a private party whose comment online suggests that Columbia Crest private reserve wines are invariably "brilliant." Since most of them cost more than $30 I may never verify that opinion. And the vintage I bought might wake up a little by 2014, so I'll try it again that year.
Would I give Walter Clore as a gift? Sure...if I knew the recipient likes her wines a little less bold, a little more fruit forward. That's a good enough reason to venture from the box canyon of my usual preferences.
Saturday, March 10, 2012
Howdy, Ma'am, How "Bout A Sip of My Merlot?
When I say cowpoke, you picture John Wayne, maybe Clint Eastwood, coming at you bow-legged, packing a gun the size of a wine bottle, right?
Wrong. These days, if rumor serves right, that's a wine bottle they're toting, and a handful of Texas wineries make wine good enough to serve with chateaubriand, not just a bowl of Texas red.
Just last week, the Texas Wine & Food Foundation sponsored a shindig that featured wines from Alamosa Wine Cellars, Becker Vineyards, Duchman Family Winery, Fall Creek Vineyards, Llano Estacado Winery, McPherson Cellars, Spicewood Vineyards in a sip-off against some well-known Argentine wines.
Fall Creek showed up with a surprising entry, their Mission San Antonio de Valero Sauvignon Blanc. Llano Estacado brought their Texas Cabernet, along with a new Riesling, and if that's all news to you, there are six Texas wines already well-known in the wine world for their excellence.
McPherson, for instance, took home a gold medal for its 2009 Rose' of Syrah from the Los Angeles International Wine & Spirits Competition in 2010. Duchman Estate Winery took home a Double Gold in 2010 from the San Francisco International competition for its 2008 Dolcetto. And Brennan Vineyards earned gold for its 2007 Syrah in the Finger Lakes (2010) competition.
One of the better known Texas vineyards (Landon) was the Class Champion for its Sparkling Wine Cuvee Sec in 2011. Landon took home 19 medals at the 2010 San Antonio Rodeo Wine Competition. And down in Fredricksburg, Becker Vineyards makes a Cabernet one writer [from Forbes Magazine] called "the best wine in Texas," a steal at under $15.
Finally, I'd feel guilty if I didn't mention Purple Possum Winery in Navasota. They don't make any award-winning wine, and Clint would never show up there. What they make is mead, and mead was the fabled drink of Norse gods. If that's not enough to tempt you, please note that Purple Possum makes vanilla mead, cinnamon mead, and something called Skunk Mead, which they praise for its "unique smell." You gotta get down there, podnuh. If you do, don't come home too soon, you hear?
Wrong. These days, if rumor serves right, that's a wine bottle they're toting, and a handful of Texas wineries make wine good enough to serve with chateaubriand, not just a bowl of Texas red.
Just last week, the Texas Wine & Food Foundation sponsored a shindig that featured wines from Alamosa Wine Cellars, Becker Vineyards, Duchman Family Winery, Fall Creek Vineyards, Llano Estacado Winery, McPherson Cellars, Spicewood Vineyards in a sip-off against some well-known Argentine wines.
Fall Creek showed up with a surprising entry, their Mission San Antonio de Valero Sauvignon Blanc. Llano Estacado brought their Texas Cabernet, along with a new Riesling, and if that's all news to you, there are six Texas wines already well-known in the wine world for their excellence.
McPherson, for instance, took home a gold medal for its 2009 Rose' of Syrah from the Los Angeles International Wine & Spirits Competition in 2010. Duchman Estate Winery took home a Double Gold in 2010 from the San Francisco International competition for its 2008 Dolcetto. And Brennan Vineyards earned gold for its 2007 Syrah in the Finger Lakes (2010) competition.
One of the better known Texas vineyards (Landon) was the Class Champion for its Sparkling Wine Cuvee Sec in 2011. Landon took home 19 medals at the 2010 San Antonio Rodeo Wine Competition. And down in Fredricksburg, Becker Vineyards makes a Cabernet one writer [from Forbes Magazine] called "the best wine in Texas," a steal at under $15.
Finally, I'd feel guilty if I didn't mention Purple Possum Winery in Navasota. They don't make any award-winning wine, and Clint would never show up there. What they make is mead, and mead was the fabled drink of Norse gods. If that's not enough to tempt you, please note that Purple Possum makes vanilla mead, cinnamon mead, and something called Skunk Mead, which they praise for its "unique smell." You gotta get down there, podnuh. If you do, don't come home too soon, you hear?
Monday, March 5, 2012
Even if you don't know a pinot noir from a pinata
Let's say you know nothing about wine. Cruising the wine section at Safeway you feel as helpless as a Republican in San Francisco (where Nancy Pelosi has been re-elected 10 times with 75% majority). Nancy and her hubby own a vineyard in St. Helena, by the way.
So even if don't know a pinot from a pinata, you could show your solidarity by taking home a bottle of Liparita 2010 Cabernet. Nancy doesn't make that wine. She just sells some grapes to the vineyard. If Nancy's not your cup of cab, owning a winery is a sport of sorts to dozens of other celebrities.
Imagine having a few pals over for burgers on the deck this summer, and pouring them a glass from a vineyard owned by any of the following VIPS:
Mike Ditka (Kick Ass Red...about $49)
Wayne Gretzky (No. 99 Cab....he also has a syrah and a chard)
Madonna (actually owned by her parents, called Ciccone Vineyard, in Michigan)
Joe Montana (he collaborates with Beringer on Montagia Wines)
Dan Marino (70% of proceeds from his Vintage 13 wines go to charity)
Olivia Newton-John (she has owend Koala Blue since 1983)
Greg Norman (you can find his Greg Norman Estates cab for under $15)
Arnold Palmer (Arnie has a cab and a chard, both under $14)
Tom Seaver (Seaver Vineyard in Calistoga sells Nancy's Fancy at $65/btl)
Tommy & Dick Smothers (Remick Ridge Vineyards: their wine (cab) is serious;
has won repeated silver and gold awards in California tastings)
Boz Scaggs (the noted R & B singer and his wife love Rhone style wines, have
planted some acreage in Napa with syrah, grenache, and mourvèdre,
that sells under MONTAGE label for about $75.)
Robert Parker (Beau Freres Vineyard in Oregon (his brother runs it)
Francis Ford Coppola and golfer Ernie Els and two British rockers (Cliff Richard and Mick Hucknall) also dabble in wines.
And perhaps most amazing, you can buy a wine (from Fattoria Le Terrazze in Italy) called Planet Waves, named after a Bob Dylan hit and signed by the singer.
So even if don't know a pinot from a pinata, you could show your solidarity by taking home a bottle of Liparita 2010 Cabernet. Nancy doesn't make that wine. She just sells some grapes to the vineyard. If Nancy's not your cup of cab, owning a winery is a sport of sorts to dozens of other celebrities.
Imagine having a few pals over for burgers on the deck this summer, and pouring them a glass from a vineyard owned by any of the following VIPS:
Mike Ditka (Kick Ass Red...about $49)
Wayne Gretzky (No. 99 Cab....he also has a syrah and a chard)
Madonna (actually owned by her parents, called Ciccone Vineyard, in Michigan)
Joe Montana (he collaborates with Beringer on Montagia Wines)
Dan Marino (70% of proceeds from his Vintage 13 wines go to charity)
Olivia Newton-John (she has owend Koala Blue since 1983)
Greg Norman (you can find his Greg Norman Estates cab for under $15)
Arnold Palmer (Arnie has a cab and a chard, both under $14)
Tom Seaver (Seaver Vineyard in Calistoga sells Nancy's Fancy at $65/btl)
Tommy & Dick Smothers (Remick Ridge Vineyards: their wine (cab) is serious;
has won repeated silver and gold awards in California tastings)
Boz Scaggs (the noted R & B singer and his wife love Rhone style wines, have
planted some acreage in Napa with syrah, grenache, and mourvèdre,
that sells under MONTAGE label for about $75.)
Robert Parker (Beau Freres Vineyard in Oregon (his brother runs it)
Francis Ford Coppola and golfer Ernie Els and two British rockers (Cliff Richard and Mick Hucknall) also dabble in wines.
And perhaps most amazing, you can buy a wine (from Fattoria Le Terrazze in Italy) called Planet Waves, named after a Bob Dylan hit and signed by the singer.
Friday, February 10, 2012
She don't DO white, like some other women do
Messed up by a Semillon in the mid-80s, she has not touched white wine for 25 years.
Won't do it. She can't prove it was the wine, either. It could have been the guacamole dip, the shrimp, or just a garden variety nausea that bagged her later that evening.
But now neither her girl friends nor wine guides or me nudging her to give the Inama Soave a sip will budge her to consider it. Since all whites are off limits, even pro seco and champagne, we wind up with a dozen bottles (mostly gifted) in our tiny cellar, aging nicely, but unlikely to find their way to the recycling center.
Unless they are rare vintages or special occasion gifts, I find new homes for them. I have fed a few to Grandma, who will sip a red wine if it resembles the ones Grandpa used to brew (out of a bucket of blackberries or a pail of plums from his own orchard). She likes them sugar-laden, but on the white side will tolerate a Pinot Grigio if I don't have a sauterne or Gewurztraminer in the house. What some of us consider cooking wine is her cuppa tea.
At Thanksgiving I coaxed her to try a glass of Semillon and it lasted her all afternoon. This dilemma leaves me with too many whites on the teeter-totter I call my wine cellar --a rustic rack over the armoire in the kitchen. Its contents range from a Pomerol to a couple of Red Mountain chards from Terra Blanca (Washington). I may stuff them in someone's stocking this Christmas...not hers. That morning she's only after chocolate.
Has anyone considered making a Chocolate Chard? Stuck on reds, I have plenty to drink, from the 2009 Dante Cabernet--left over after our daughter's wedding in 2009: its berry-riddled finish makes it great with steak in midsummer--to an Owen Roe Cab we've been saving for the right moment, a Dunham Cellars Syrah I consider one of the best wines I've tasted, and a long-savored Napa Valley Cabernet from Heitz cellars due to be opened on our 45th anniversary.
That reminds me: too many winesites from too many vineyards make the fatal mistake of featuring photos of wine fields, chateaus, connoiseurs ganged up around a cask like a family reunion shot. You can't drink a winefield, and we're not that interested in your cousins. To help us single bottle buyers who are curious, but not ready to haul home a case, smart guys will put pictures of their best bottles in plain sight.
That's how most of us remember what we like.
We begin by thinking as we drink..then drinking as we think
Living on Island America, sometimes I forget there are other islands.
For instance...when I started drinking wine 30 years ago, I thought about it...gradually got used to it, settled in my preferences the way people do when they pick a political party.
For 20 years I've been drinking red wines most, and I like cabs over most reds plus a few big Tuscans, some syrahs. I am content to keep doing that. But I wonder what the British drink. So I asked.
First...their own wine is generally called Welsh Wine (British Wine refers to fermented grape juice) But the British are serious consumers of wine, most of it imported, and most of that from Australia now. Wikipedia says Theale Vineyard Sparkling Chardonnay is a big winner over there.
In 2010, these three wines were likely to be seen on British tabletops:
Finca Remendio Verdejo Rueda 2009
A pale Spanish white with hints of apples, white flowers
Cabrials Grenache Cinsult Rose 2009
For instance...when I started drinking wine 30 years ago, I thought about it...gradually got used to it, settled in my preferences the way people do when they pick a political party.
For 20 years I've been drinking red wines most, and I like cabs over most reds plus a few big Tuscans, some syrahs. I am content to keep doing that. But I wonder what the British drink. So I asked.
First...their own wine is generally called Welsh Wine (British Wine refers to fermented grape juice) But the British are serious consumers of wine, most of it imported, and most of that from Australia now. Wikipedia says Theale Vineyard Sparkling Chardonnay is a big winner over there.
In 2010, these three wines were likely to be seen on British tabletops:
Finca Remendio Verdejo Rueda 2009
A pale Spanish white with hints of apples, white flowers
Cabrials Grenache Cinsult Rose 2009
A pale salmon Bordeaux with a nose of red summer fruits and citrus and a balance of acidity, fruit and body.
Finca La Linda Malbec 2008
An Argentine wine with deep ruby colour and scents of plums and red and black fruits.
How about France? By comparison with the French, American wine drinkers are pikers (though we put away twice as much beer per capita). They drink SIX times more wine ...most of it red table wine..most of it at dinner with the family....and beaujolais remains the most common table wine there. But wine consumption is declining, with about half of young French moving to other alcohols (Calvados, Cognac) and away from expensive premier brands, according to WINE SPECTATOR.
In those fields and regions where the world's greatest wines earned their names, Merlot is still the leading grape among red wines grown there, with several white varietals combining to explain the popularity of wines like Sauvignon Blanc, Macon Villages and Riesling.
PS
I would not normally include Ireland in a list about wine drinking, but my Irish friends will probably ask. So I will close by saying that it's wiser to ask for a pint, and if you insist on a fine wine, don't ask the pub master to recommend one. He's likely to look over his own shoulder before answering, Smithwick's.
An Argentine wine with deep ruby colour and scents of plums and red and black fruits.
How about France? By comparison with the French, American wine drinkers are pikers (though we put away twice as much beer per capita). They drink SIX times more wine ...most of it red table wine..most of it at dinner with the family....and beaujolais remains the most common table wine there. But wine consumption is declining, with about half of young French moving to other alcohols (Calvados, Cognac) and away from expensive premier brands, according to WINE SPECTATOR.
In those fields and regions where the world's greatest wines earned their names, Merlot is still the leading grape among red wines grown there, with several white varietals combining to explain the popularity of wines like Sauvignon Blanc, Macon Villages and Riesling.
PS
I would not normally include Ireland in a list about wine drinking, but my Irish friends will probably ask. So I will close by saying that it's wiser to ask for a pint, and if you insist on a fine wine, don't ask the pub master to recommend one. He's likely to look over his own shoulder before answering, Smithwick's.
Friday, February 3, 2012
G'bye Annie Green Springs, We'll Never Forget You
When we talk wine, we speak too often about what we love, not enough about the dark secret of how we got started.
Only one guy I know grew up around great wine. So I asked a dozen others to tell me how their wine careers began, where they stand today, and why.
A pattern emerged. At least half had a bad night that left indelible stains. This usually happened in high school, they said, usually with a couple of pals, usually at a party. The offending beverage was Annie Green Springs, Ripple, Arriba, Boone's Farm, loganberry flips, wine coolers, or some similar Satanic concoction sold at 7-11 (stolen in most cases.)
The plot sickened. They found a secret place to slug down the wine,
drank half a bottle (hey it tasted kinda like Kool-Aid!), they got woozy, woke up at 2 a.m. in a ditch, on a beach, in the back seat of a bad car with their faces pressed into a pool of puke. Yeah.
They gave up wine instantly, and did not return to it for a decade.
When they did, the pattern was more gradual and guarded, often involved friends, another couple, dinner, a wine-tasting...and they found the wine was OK, nothing special. It took another 5-10 years before they got serious.
Their first legitimate sip was commonly a Merlot (which by now most have abandoned). Or a chardonnay, and many still sip it. Most guys and some of the women have moved on to Cabernet, Syrah or out of the wine world entirely, usually to beer... or a particular mixed drink like margaritas or Fireball (a trendy new whiskey mix).
While I was not (originally) looking for recommended wines in my half-baked survey, I found that most people did wind up with a persistent preferende, and their migration was instructive.
They began by accident in most cases, usually in a fit of mischief, not figuring they'd be more sophisticated after they drained the bottle. They returned more sober, but not sure what to expect. Maybe they were bored with Bud Light, or had moved up in their social standing.
Once they tasted a sensible bottle of wine, most hop-scotched from merlot or chard to (a) bigger, more oaky, or tannic wines like Cabernet; some chose syrah or pinot noir or a red blend; or dabbled with more complex whites like sauvignon blanc or pinot grigio or a classic French white Chateau d'Y'Quem.
Here is a short list of some accidental recommendations. (As a group, most prefer red wines (cab or syrah).
Caymus CONUNDRUM (a California blend of several whites), usually under $20 and described as follows: "green apple, tangerine and sweet white flowers, melon, citrus, vanilla." Spectator says "Intensely flavored. Drink now."
Robert Karl 2006 Claret: out of Spokane. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec impart black cherries and smoky coffee, cedar and bittersweet chocolate. About $20
Milbrandt Estates Cabernet $25 black cherry, blackberry, cassis, vanilla, chocolate and spice.
Only one guy I know grew up around great wine. So I asked a dozen others to tell me how their wine careers began, where they stand today, and why.
A pattern emerged. At least half had a bad night that left indelible stains. This usually happened in high school, they said, usually with a couple of pals, usually at a party. The offending beverage was Annie Green Springs, Ripple, Arriba, Boone's Farm, loganberry flips, wine coolers, or some similar Satanic concoction sold at 7-11 (stolen in most cases.)
The plot sickened. They found a secret place to slug down the wine,
drank half a bottle (hey it tasted kinda like Kool-Aid!), they got woozy, woke up at 2 a.m. in a ditch, on a beach, in the back seat of a bad car with their faces pressed into a pool of puke. Yeah.
They gave up wine instantly, and did not return to it for a decade.
When they did, the pattern was more gradual and guarded, often involved friends, another couple, dinner, a wine-tasting...and they found the wine was OK, nothing special. It took another 5-10 years before they got serious.
Their first legitimate sip was commonly a Merlot (which by now most have abandoned). Or a chardonnay, and many still sip it. Most guys and some of the women have moved on to Cabernet, Syrah or out of the wine world entirely, usually to beer... or a particular mixed drink like margaritas or Fireball (a trendy new whiskey mix).
While I was not (originally) looking for recommended wines in my half-baked survey, I found that most people did wind up with a persistent preferende, and their migration was instructive.
They began by accident in most cases, usually in a fit of mischief, not figuring they'd be more sophisticated after they drained the bottle. They returned more sober, but not sure what to expect. Maybe they were bored with Bud Light, or had moved up in their social standing.
Once they tasted a sensible bottle of wine, most hop-scotched from merlot or chard to (a) bigger, more oaky, or tannic wines like Cabernet; some chose syrah or pinot noir or a red blend; or dabbled with more complex whites like sauvignon blanc or pinot grigio or a classic French white Chateau d'Y'Quem.
Here is a short list of some accidental recommendations. (As a group, most prefer red wines (cab or syrah).
Caymus CONUNDRUM (a California blend of several whites), usually under $20 and described as follows: "green apple, tangerine and sweet white flowers, melon, citrus, vanilla." Spectator says "Intensely flavored. Drink now."
Robert Karl 2006 Claret: out of Spokane. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec impart black cherries and smoky coffee, cedar and bittersweet chocolate. About $20
Milbrandt Estates Cabernet $25 black cherry, blackberry, cassis, vanilla, chocolate and spice.
Tuesday, January 31, 2012
Airwines: When you're flying, what's pouring?
I wondered what I might be served if I could afford to fly first class --or even business class--to the Big Apple and beyond. It turns out the airlines have thought about it, too.
I learned they've come a long way from a packet of peanuts and a 200-year-old cookie.
A handful of carriers have hired top talent to guide them in what they pour. Those include United, American, and Singapore, to name a handful. The guidance has paid off, not only in the quality of wines provided. Several show a lot of imagination in what they serve.
Champagne, which you'd expect to see, is there aplenty, but I don't drink it, so I'll just say Singapore appears to lead the league in this field.
In first class, they also pour a pricey burgundy [2006 Faively Corton Clos des Cortons] served nowhere else in the air. American also shows 1st class savoir faire, serving a Cabernet from the Pauillac region. And United sticks closer to home in 1st class with two from California: a St. Clement Carneros Chardonnay 2007 or a 2007 Davis Bynum Russian River Sonoma Pinot Noir. On their domestic economy flights, United also surprises with a Redtree Chardonnay 2008 (North Coast, Calif.) or a Sol Casal Tempranillo NV (Spain). Not the sort of thing you'd expect in mid-air.
I learned they've come a long way from a packet of peanuts and a 200-year-old cookie.
A handful of carriers have hired top talent to guide them in what they pour. Those include United, American, and Singapore, to name a handful. The guidance has paid off, not only in the quality of wines provided. Several show a lot of imagination in what they serve.
Champagne, which you'd expect to see, is there aplenty, but I don't drink it, so I'll just say Singapore appears to lead the league in this field.
In first class, they also pour a pricey burgundy [2006 Faively Corton Clos des Cortons] served nowhere else in the air. American also shows 1st class savoir faire, serving a Cabernet from the Pauillac region. And United sticks closer to home in 1st class with two from California: a St. Clement Carneros Chardonnay 2007 or a 2007 Davis Bynum Russian River Sonoma Pinot Noir. On their domestic economy flights, United also surprises with a Redtree Chardonnay 2008 (North Coast, Calif.) or a Sol Casal Tempranillo NV (Spain). Not the sort of thing you'd expect in mid-air.
Flying American you can ask for a Hope Estate Verdelho [a white from the Hunter Valley of Australia, called a nice change of pace from Chardonnay)...and on Qantas, a 2005 Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay [which some connoisseur calls 'a vastly under-rated, gorgeous'].
Cruising the terminal for other options, I see refreshing picks from British Airways (an Argento Malbec); American pours a Graham's 1991 Malvedos Vintage Port; SAS steps up with a Crusan Colombard Sauvignon Côtes de Gasgogne [a dry white seen most often as a pub /restaurant wine]; and United, showing imagination once more, serves its business class passengers a 2009 Burgans Albariño (another dry white).
Two other options impressed me: the 2005 Château Batailley served on Lufthansa,rated 90 by Wine Spectator [with hints of licorice, currant and fresh cèpe on the nose. Full and silky, with lots of sweet tobacco and berry character..] and the Casa de Santa Dão Reserva, which you'll taste in the off chance you choose to fly Air Portualo to Lisbon; it's a red blend of Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro and Tinta Roriz rated 87 at the Westin St. Francis tasting.]
I won't be flying much at current market rates..but some of these
wines may be ordered on line. If I had to pick one sip from this list I'd order the Batailley, then pretend I went to Kenya to visit our old friends Mike & Judy Rainy, who run a remarkable safari/photo camp in Kajiado. They serve a nice sauvignon blanc and also are partial to South African clarets if you decide to go.
Sunday, January 8, 2012
California took in an orphan, called it Zin
A friend said lately his zin shelf was bare. Mine, too, but zin upsets me, so I was wary. A decade ago, when two bottles from the same California vineyard tied my guts in a knot, I took zin off my list.
A few years passed, and I attended a tasting where I tried a sip of Turley, another from Ridge, 3-4 others, all from California. The Turley took 2nd in our little circle. I can't recall the winner, but my faith in zin was restored.
It was at that tasting I heard that Zinfandel--considered a great choice for anyone doing burgers on the deck--has a history that leapfrogs its assumed home in Italy (where they also call it primitivo) to Croatia, its true home.
It's winter here, and we're in no hurry to haul out the deck chairs, but I did some scouting for my friend, and found half a dozen reliable zins under $16. They include:
Joel Gott 2008 Zin at $14
Michael Pozzan Napa Valley Cuvee 2009 Zin $17
Four Vines Maverick Zin $16
Ironstone Reserve 2008 Zin $15
While I'm sure it works, I'd drink a different wine (a nosy syrah) with my deckburger. With Zin I'd consider some chewy Thai dishes, especially those rated 3-5 on the pepper scale. I don't recommend it. I'm just making a point. I believe Zin will win more fans as the current crop of winemakers figures out how to take down that spicy edge, round it out and give us a more balanced profile fit for other foods.
A few years passed, and I attended a tasting where I tried a sip of Turley, another from Ridge, 3-4 others, all from California. The Turley took 2nd in our little circle. I can't recall the winner, but my faith in zin was restored.
It was at that tasting I heard that Zinfandel--considered a great choice for anyone doing burgers on the deck--has a history that leapfrogs its assumed home in Italy (where they also call it primitivo) to Croatia, its true home.
It's winter here, and we're in no hurry to haul out the deck chairs, but I did some scouting for my friend, and found half a dozen reliable zins under $16. They include:
Joel Gott 2008 Zin at $14
Klinker Brick Old Vine 2009 Zin @ $16 ----or $14.50 per half case--the first one I'd like to try, based purely on the name.
St. Francis Old Vine 2007 Zin $16Michael Pozzan Napa Valley Cuvee 2009 Zin $17
Four Vines Maverick Zin $16
Ironstone Reserve 2008 Zin $15
While I'm sure it works, I'd drink a different wine (a nosy syrah) with my deckburger. With Zin I'd consider some chewy Thai dishes, especially those rated 3-5 on the pepper scale. I don't recommend it. I'm just making a point. I believe Zin will win more fans as the current crop of winemakers figures out how to take down that spicy edge, round it out and give us a more balanced profile fit for other foods.
Tuesday, January 3, 2012
Orson? it's time to drink the wine
Once known as the Champagne King of California, Paul Masson left town not once, but twice. The first time he was homesick for France, but when he got there, the phylloxera virus killed all the root stock, so he came back. The second time was when Paul Masson folded its tent when it was acquired by Vintners International and became the Mountain Winery..hardly a distinctive brand (have you heard of it since Orson Wells died?)
Maybe that's because Vintners filed for bankruptcy and was acquired by Canandaigua. better known as CENTERA. That was nearly 20 years ago. Growing out of that mess Canandaigua became Constellation (heard of that?) and the Masson label was sold by Centera to the Wine Group LLC of California.
We know now that Wells never drank Paul Masson in his life. And in a sense, neither have we, since 1993. Wine Group also bought two other lowbrow brands (Almaden and Inglenook) which I guess you can still find on the shelf at Safeway? (You can buy Almaden Heritage Cab for about $7 in box wine. Might be worth a sip if you're just getting started with wine.) The Mountain Winery sells a cab for $27 and a zin for $26. They also offer wine classes/tastings at the vineyard where you can learn the ropes (vines?) from experts.) At Inglenook, they took the high road...wines run from $48 to $430 a bottle. They've earned high marks, but I don't buy wine that pricey.)
The other end is the tiny one, and that's where I tend to migrate. I like Hauck Cellars in Healdsburg, for instance. When I buy a case from Hauck, I can talk directly to Greg at the counter. Same with Austin Briggs in Calistoga, CA. I also had a nice chat with a charming woman at Barnard Griffin in Prosser, but the founder was not far away. That sense of proximity/ownership/pride melts away when the winery becomes a mere commodity.
Maybe that's because Vintners filed for bankruptcy and was acquired by Canandaigua. better known as CENTERA. That was nearly 20 years ago. Growing out of that mess Canandaigua became Constellation (heard of that?) and the Masson label was sold by Centera to the Wine Group LLC of California.
We know now that Wells never drank Paul Masson in his life. And in a sense, neither have we, since 1993. Wine Group also bought two other lowbrow brands (Almaden and Inglenook) which I guess you can still find on the shelf at Safeway? (You can buy Almaden Heritage Cab for about $7 in box wine. Might be worth a sip if you're just getting started with wine.) The Mountain Winery sells a cab for $27 and a zin for $26. They also offer wine classes/tastings at the vineyard where you can learn the ropes (vines?) from experts.) At Inglenook, they took the high road...wines run from $48 to $430 a bottle. They've earned high marks, but I don't buy wine that pricey.)
All of this is prelude to the question: Where do we learn about wine?
I believe the answers are (in this order):
a) friends and family who introduce us to it at parties
b) fraternities
c) tasting events we attend at nonprofit auctions.
We haven't seen Orson Welles pumping Paul Masson for years, and we don't see wine advertised on television, so the role of media in minimal in shaping our taste. If you shop at wine stores, you are no doubt bedevilled by the sheer array of bottles...you feel like a kid in a toy store, or a woman buying fishing gear...unless you happen to be Joan Wulff, that paragon of casters.
But I'm not here to offer advice. Taste is too precarious for that. I prefer to point out that there are two ends to the wine trade, or maybe three. The first is the mega-wineries (Gallo owns about 60%of it, I suppose, even if they hide their hands in boutique mittens.)
I believe the answers are (in this order):
a) friends and family who introduce us to it at parties
b) fraternities
c) tasting events we attend at nonprofit auctions.
We haven't seen Orson Welles pumping Paul Masson for years, and we don't see wine advertised on television, so the role of media in minimal in shaping our taste. If you shop at wine stores, you are no doubt bedevilled by the sheer array of bottles...you feel like a kid in a toy store, or a woman buying fishing gear...unless you happen to be Joan Wulff, that paragon of casters.
But I'm not here to offer advice. Taste is too precarious for that. I prefer to point out that there are two ends to the wine trade, or maybe three. The first is the mega-wineries (Gallo owns about 60%of it, I suppose, even if they hide their hands in boutique mittens.)
The other end is the tiny one, and that's where I tend to migrate. I like Hauck Cellars in Healdsburg, for instance. When I buy a case from Hauck, I can talk directly to Greg at the counter. Same with Austin Briggs in Calistoga, CA. I also had a nice chat with a charming woman at Barnard Griffin in Prosser, but the founder was not far away. That sense of proximity/ownership/pride melts away when the winery becomes a mere commodity.
So here are some other solo vineyards --named randomly--if you happen to share my bias. I suggest 500-1,000 cases as a ceiling
in choosing your wines.
Allora --Napa (esp. for its petite sirah, their best seller).
Biale -- Napa (esp. for its old vine Zin, reumored to be fine..I don't know.)
Vincent Arroyo--Calistoga (for its cab and petite sirah..I have not tried them.)
Robert Hall --Paso Robles (for syrah, but also for its gold medal Rose) Have tried only the syrah)
Penman Springs--(Paso Robles for petite sirah and cab--have not tried)
St. Francis Winery: --Sonoma (for its 2008 Cab)
I have one in my cellar
And in Washington State:
Dunham Cellars: --Walla Walla (for its syrah and its Trutina, both terrific)
Dusted Valley: --Walla Walla (for its cabernet franc and its malbec)
(have not tried that)
Gramercy Cellars---Walla Walla (have not tried these, but hear great things
about Syrah, Cab and Third Man
Mark Ryan: --Woodinville (for its allegedly great Dead Horse and its cabernet
(already sold out). Note: I could not afford any of their wines, but
they have become a winemaking legend in NW, considered a "cult" winery.)
Gorman Winery: --Woodinville (for its Evil Twin and Bully wines, both red)
as much for their amusing names as any other reason..I can't afford 'em.
JM Cellars: --Woodinville (for its Bramble Bump--sold out)
They have others I can't afford, but if you can, consider Longevity @ $38
Their Tre Fanciulli--cab/merlot/syrah) is also sold out. Only 275 cases.
(15% discount for club members)
in choosing your wines.
Allora --Napa (esp. for its petite sirah, their best seller).
Biale -- Napa (esp. for its old vine Zin, reumored to be fine..I don't know.)
Vincent Arroyo--Calistoga (for its cab and petite sirah..I have not tried them.)
Robert Hall --Paso Robles (for syrah, but also for its gold medal Rose) Have tried only the syrah)
Penman Springs--(Paso Robles for petite sirah and cab--have not tried)
St. Francis Winery: --Sonoma (for its 2008 Cab)
I have one in my cellar
And in Washington State:
Dunham Cellars: --Walla Walla (for its syrah and its Trutina, both terrific)
Dusted Valley: --Walla Walla (for its cabernet franc and its malbec)
(have not tried that)
Gramercy Cellars---Walla Walla (have not tried these, but hear great things
about Syrah, Cab and Third Man
Mark Ryan: --Woodinville (for its allegedly great Dead Horse and its cabernet
(already sold out). Note: I could not afford any of their wines, but
they have become a winemaking legend in NW, considered a "cult" winery.)
Gorman Winery: --Woodinville (for its Evil Twin and Bully wines, both red)
as much for their amusing names as any other reason..I can't afford 'em.
JM Cellars: --Woodinville (for its Bramble Bump--sold out)
They have others I can't afford, but if you can, consider Longevity @ $38
Their Tre Fanciulli--cab/merlot/syrah) is also sold out. Only 275 cases.
(15% discount for club members)
Monday, January 2, 2012
Old bottle, drunk fall in, nice bouquet
You read haiku? Not many do. The best ones have the punch of ju jitsu, the delicacy of a snowflake landing our faces. But for most readers--the experience is too much like looking in the window of a restaurant, thinking of going in...but skipping the meal.
So why does wine figure prominently in the work of so many of the best makers of haiku? It is an outright theme in some cases...the poet staggering home after wine with friends comes upon a tableau near a country lane. Or the rice wine loosens his tongue and he admit some human frailty. I can't be sure...not being a drinker of Sake, but I suspect most of the power lies in the wine, not the lines.
Poking around the Internet for a blog that explores the connections between poetry and wine, I found RED WINE HAIKU Review where the blogger (Lane Steinberg) sums up some recent tastings in the classical form of a 3-line Japanese poem:
Here's a random sample of some recent brief assessments:
489) Roxyann Syrah 2008 (Oregon)
488) Roxyann Merlot 2007 (Oregon)
486) Cannonball Cabernet 2008 (California)
481) Castlebank Zinfandel 2009 (California)
To see more of Mr. Steinberg, visit his blog at
http://redwinehaiku.blogspot.com/
So why does wine figure prominently in the work of so many of the best makers of haiku? It is an outright theme in some cases...the poet staggering home after wine with friends comes upon a tableau near a country lane. Or the rice wine loosens his tongue and he admit some human frailty. I can't be sure...not being a drinker of Sake, but I suspect most of the power lies in the wine, not the lines.
Poking around the Internet for a blog that explores the connections between poetry and wine, I found RED WINE HAIKU Review where the blogger (Lane Steinberg) sums up some recent tastings in the classical form of a 3-line Japanese poem:
Here's a random sample of some recent brief assessments:
489) Roxyann Syrah 2008 (Oregon)
Baby butt softness
And a milk chocolate finish
Hide from the children!
488) Roxyann Merlot 2007 (Oregon)
When expectations
Are effortlessly eclipsed
One's left satisfied
486) Cannonball Cabernet 2008 (California)
Starts off promising
An impressive half gainer
Then a belly flop
481) Castlebank Zinfandel 2009 (California)
Frivolous and cold
Which by no means should suggest
It's without its char
It's without its char
To see more of Mr. Steinberg, visit his blog at
http://redwinehaiku.blogspot.com/
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)