Tuesday, January 31, 2012

Airwines: When you're flying, what's pouring?

I wondered what I might be served if I could afford to fly first class --or even business class--to the Big Apple and beyond.   It turns out the airlines have thought about it, too.


I learned they've come a long way from a packet of peanuts and a 200-year-old cookie.


A handful of carriers have hired top talent to guide them in what they pour. Those include United, American, and Singapore, to name a handful. The guidance has paid off, not only in the quality of wines provided.  Several show a lot of imagination in what they serve.


Champagne, which you'd expect to see, is there aplenty, but I don't drink it, so I'll just say Singapore appears to lead the league in this field.    


In first class, they also pour a pricey burgundy [2006 Faively Corton Clos des Cortons] served nowhere else in the air.  American also shows 1st class savoir faire, serving a Cabernet from the Pauillac region.  And United sticks closer to home in 1st class with two from California:  a St. Clement Carneros Chardonnay 2007 or a 2007 Davis Bynum Russian River Sonoma Pinot Noir.  On their domestic economy flights, United also surprises with a Redtree Chardonnay 2008 (North Coast, Calif.) or a  Sol Casal Tempranillo NV (Spain).  Not the sort of thing you'd expect in mid-air.
  Flying American you can ask for a Hope Estate Verdelho [a white from the Hunter Valley of Australia, called a nice change of pace from Chardonnay)...and on Qantas, a 2005 Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay [which some connoisseur calls 'a vastly under-rated, gorgeous'].
   Cruising the terminal for other options, I see refreshing picks from British Airways (an Argento Malbec); American pours a Graham's 1991 Malvedos Vintage Port; SAS steps up with a Crusan Colombard Sauvignon Côtes de Gasgogne [a dry white seen most often as a pub /restaurant wine]; and United, showing imagination once more, serves its business class passengers a 2009 Burgans Albariño (another dry white). 
  Two other options impressed me:  the 2005 Château Batailley served on Lufthansa,rated 90 by Wine Spectator [with hints of licorice, currant and fresh cèpe on the nose. Full and silky, with lots of sweet tobacco and berry character..] and the Casa de Santa Dão Reserva,  which you'll taste in the off chance you choose to fly Air Portualo to Lisbon; it's a red blend of Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro and Tinta Roriz rated 87 at the Westin St. Francis tasting.]

I won't be flying much at current market rates..but some of these
wines may be ordered on line.  If I had to pick one sip from this list I'd order the Batailley, then pretend I went to Kenya to visit our old friends Mike & Judy Rainy, who run a remarkable safari/photo camp in Kajiado. They serve a nice sauvignon blanc and also are partial to South African clarets if you decide to go.

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